Herbal
excipients
Contents
• Herbal
excipients
• Diluents
• Colors
• Oils
• Waxes
• Gums
• Preservatives
• Antioxidants
• Perfumes
Objective
At the end of the session, student will be able to
• Explain
the various excipients used for formulating cosmetics
• Identify
suitable colors for preparing herbal cosmetics
• Explain
the various natural colors available for formulating cosmetics
• Identify
suitable raw materials for preparing herbal cosmetics
• Explain
the various oils available for formulating herbal cosmetics
• Explain
the various waxes available for formulating herbal cosmetics
• Explain
the various gums available for formulating herbal cosmetics
• Explain
the various preservatives available for formulating herbal cosmetics
• Explain
the various antioxidants available for formulating herbal cosmetics
• Explain
the various perfumes available for formulating herbal cosmetics
Herbal excipients
• Excipients
are defined as ‘the substance used as a medium for giving a medicament
• Pharmaceutical
excipients can be defined as non-active ingredients that are mixed with
therapeutically active compound(s) to form medicines.
• The
ingredient which is not an active compound is regarded as an excipients.
Excipients affect the behavior and effectiveness of the drug product more and
more functionality and significantly.
• Plant
derived polymers
• Synthetic
polymers
Plant derived polymers
Advantages
• renewable
• can be cultivated or harvested in sustainable
manner
• can
supply constant availability of raw material
Disadvantages
• synthesized
in small quantities
• In
mixtures that are structurally complex, which may differ according to the
location of the plants as well as other variables such as the season
• Result
in a slow and expensive isolation and purification process.
Classification of Herbal Excipients
Excipients are commonly classified according to their
application and function in the drug products:
• Binders,
Diluents
• Lubricants,
Glidants, Disintegrants
• Polishing
Film formers and coatings agents
• Plasticizers,
Colorings
• Suspending
agents Preservatives, antioxidants
Raw
materials – colors
• Nature
–various colors – ancient man
• Later
– used as cosmetics –dying the hairs, painting lips and faces, coloring food,
pharmaceutical and textile products
• Colorant
: Substances added to cosmetics products to colour the product and /or to
impart color to the skin and /or its appendages
• Colour
– an dye, pigment or other substance that can impart colour toa food, drug or
cosmetics or to the human body
• Colored
compounds – chromogen or bear chromophores
– absorbs light in near UV region
• Pigments
or colors – present – cell sap – anthocyanin (bright red/ blue color),
flavonoids, anthroquinone, napthoquinone, carotenoids, indigoids, benzopyrone
derivatives and diaryl heptanoids
• Synthetic
dyes – toxic
• Natural
dyes – food colorants – approved as food and medicinal dyes
Annatto – carotenoids
• Biological
source: Dried seeds – Bixa orellana
• Family
: Bixaceae
• Physical
properties: Yellow orange in color
• Soluble
in alcohol, ether, insoluble in water
• Chemical
constituents: oleo resin – Bixin (yellow colored carotenoid) – 2.5%
Uses: coloring agent – cosmetics, food, beverages
Chlorophyll
Biological source: Green leaves of higher plants and
green algae (PRESENT IN CHLOROPLAST)
• Mixture
of 4 pigments – Chlorophyll a (blue black)
Chlorophyll b (Green black)
Carotene (Orange red)
Xanthophyll (Yellow)
Physical properties: Soluble in organic solvent, Slightly
soluble in water
Uses: Coloring agents – soaps, oils and cosmetics
Cochineal
Biological source: Dried female insects Dactilopius
coccus
Family : Coccidae
Production: Bugs –collected – autumn –protected winter
• Killed
–immersion in hot water or exposure to hot sun
• Natural
exposure – sun – good quality and
variety of dye
• Heating – sun –color changes to purplish black color
– black grains
• Burning
– sulphur and charcoal fumes –develop purple grey color – black grains
• Tubular
glands – surface – wax
Chemical constituents: 10 % anthroquinone dye –
Carminic acid , 10% fat, 2% wax
• Uses:
Coloring agent – cosmetics, drug, liquid and solid food preparations
Henna (Lawsonia)
Biological source: Dried leaves – Lawsonia inermis
Family : Lythraceae
Chemical constituents: Lawsone – 2,5 –
diOH-1,4-naphthoquinone (orange dye)
Uses: Hair dye
Along with
dihydroxy acetone –sunscreen agent
Curcumin – Turmeric
Biological source: Bright yellow coloring material
obtained from the rhizomes of Curcuma longa
Family : Zingiberaceae
Solubility: soluble – ethanol, acetic acid
Insoluble – water, ether
Uses: Food colouring agent
Carthamine
Biological source: Carthamin is a natural red pigment
derived from safflower, Carthamus tinctorius
Family : Asteraceae
Uses: It is used as a dye and a food coloring. As a
food additive, it is known as Natural Red 26.
Carthamin was used as a dye in ancient Egypt. It was used extensively in the
past for dyeing wool for the carpet industry in European countries
Crocin (Saffron)
Biological source: Golden yellow – orange carotenoid
pigment obtained from the dried stigmas and upper parts of styles of Crocus
sativus
Family : Iridaceae
Solubility: Soluble in hot water and insoluble in
absolute alcohol
Uses : Food colourant
Capsanthin (Paprika)
Biological source: Red colour carotenoid pigment
obtained from the fruit of Capsicum annum
Family : Solanaceae
Constituents: Carotenoid – Capsanthin
Uses: Coloring agent for food, pharmaceutical,
cosmetics and beverages
Lutein (Tagetus)
Biological source: Yellow orange colour carotenoid
pigment obtained from the flower of Tagetus erecta
Family : Compositae
Uses: Coloring agent for food, pharmaceutical
Used as additive of chicken feed to give colour to egg yolks
Betanin (Beet root)
Biological source: Red glycoside obtained from the
beet root, Beta vulgaris
Family :
Uses: Coloring agent for ice cream, powdered soft
drink beverages, soups, in some sugar confectionery
Raw
materials – Oils
• Various
fixed oils and volatile oils – base – various creams, lotions, hair
conditioners, hair tonics
• Certain
oils –therapeutic properties – tooth paste, mouth washes, gargles
• Oils – vegetable origin and mineral origin –
cosmetics
• Mineral
origin – Light and heavy liquid paraffin
CASTOR OIL
Biological source: Fixed oil – cold compression –
seeds –Ricinus communis
Family : Euphorbiaceae
Physical properties: Pale yellow /colorless,
transparent viscous liquid
Mild odour and bland, slightly acrid taste
Chemical constituents: Trigycerides of Ricinoleic
acid (87%), Oleic acid 7%, linoleic acid 3%, palmetic acid
Uses: Cosmetics – emollient – lipsticks, hair oil and
fixes, eye cream, rouge, stick eye shadow
Topical creams and ointments – 5-12.5%
Almond oil
Biological source: Fixed oil –expression – seeds –
Prunus amygdalus
Family : Rosaceae
Chemical constituents: Glycerides of oleic acid
(77%), linoleic acid, palmitic acid and myristic acid
Uses: Mild emollient – ingredient – cleansing cream,
cold cream and eye cream
Wheat germ oil
Biological source: Fixed oil – wheat germ – Triticum
aestivum
Family : Graminae
Chemical constituents: 44 % – linoleic acid, 10 %
linolic acid, 30 % oleic acid , 4.7% unsaponifiable matter
Uses: Source of natural vitamin E
Arachis oil
Biological source: Fixed oil – expressed – seeds
–cultivated varities – Arachis hypogaea
Family : Leguminosae
Chemical constituents: Fixed oil
Uses: Preparation – ointments, soaps, emollient,
creams and baby oil
Neem oil
Biological source: Fixed oil – fully matures seeds –
Azadirachta indica
Family : Meliaceae
Chemical constituents: Glycerides of saturated and
unsaturated fatty acids – oleic acid and stearic acid
Uses: Medicated soaps
– skin diseases
Raw
materials – Waxes
• Bases
– cosmetics – mixture of oils, fats and waxes
• Unctuous,
fusible, viscous solid substances – waxy luster
• Esters
– fatty acids – high molecular weight monohydric alcohol – cetyl alcohol and
cholesterol
Commonly used waxes
• Carnauba
wax
• Pisang
wax
• Castor
wax
• Candelilla
wax
• Bees
wax
• Spermaceti
wax
• Paraffin
wax
Carnauba wax
Biological source: Exudates – pores –brazilian wax
palm tree- Copernicia prunifera
Family : Palmae
Chemical constituents: Hydroxylated fatty acids –
carnuabic acid and cerotic acid
Uses: Hard wax – deodorant sticks and other cosmetics
Bees wax – Oldest forms of wax
Biological source: Wax obtained from the honey comb
of bees Apis melifera
Family : Apidae
Chemical constituents: Myricin, melissic acid
Uses: Used in oinments, lipsticks and face creams
Spermaceti
Biological source: Waxy substance obtained from the
head of sperm whale Physeter macrocephalus
Family : Physeteridae
Chemical constituents: Acetyl palmitate, free acetyl
alcohol, esters of lauric, myristic and stearic acids
Uses : Used as emollient – ointments, cold creams
Carnauba Wax
Biological source: Exudate from the pores of leaves
of Brazilian wax palm tree Copernicia prunifera
Family : Palmae
Chemical constituents: Esters of hydroxylated fatty
acids – carnuabic, cerotic and melissyl cerotate
Uses: Used in deplitories and deodarant sticks
Myrica Wax
Biological source: Wax obtained from the peels of
berry of Myrica cerifera
Family : Myricaceae
Chemical constituents: Palmitic, myristic and lauric
acid esters
Uses: Reducess the stickiness of creams and emulsion,
used in hair care preparations – excellent holding properties
Rice bran wax
Biological source: vegetable wax extracted from the
bran oil of rice Oryza sativa
Family : Graminae
Chemical constituents: Aliphatic acids – palmitic
acid, behenic acid and higher alcohol esters like ceryl alcohol, melissyl
alcohol, squalene and phospholipids
Uses: Thickener, binding agent with strong emollient
properties. Used in lipsticks, balms and sun screens
Raw
materials – Gums
• Hydrophobic
or hydrophilic high molecular weight molecules – colloidal properties
• Natural
gums
• Prepared
gums
Natural gums
- Sea
weed gum – agar, algin, carrageenan, laminaran
- Plant
exudates – Acacia, tragacanth, karaya, ghatti - Seed
gums – Guar gum, isabgol, tamarind, locust bean gum, quince seed gum
Carrageenan
Biological source: Sulphated polysaccharide extract –
sea weed – carageen or Irish mass – Gigartina stellata
Family : Rodophyceae
Uses: Hard lotion – Gelling, emulsifying and
stabilizing agent
Antitartar tooth paste
Hair setting lotion
Gum Tracaganth
Biological source: Dried gummy exudates – stem –
Astragalus gummifer
Family : Leguminosae
Chemical constituents: Tragcanthin – 8-10%, Bassorin
– 60 -70%
Uses: Suspending, thickening and emulsifying agent –
tooth paste, mascara, skin lotions, non greasy hair cream, barrier cream
Gum Acacia
Biological source: Dried gummy exudate – stem and
branches – Acacia senegal
Family : Leguminosae
Chemical constituents: Arabinose, galactose,
rhamnose, glyceronic acid
Uses: Suspending, thickening and emulsifying agent –
barrier cream, face mask
Locust bean gum
Biological source: Endosperm – seeds – Cerotina
siliqua
Family : Leguminosae
Chemical constituents: D – galacto – D –Mannoglycan,
4% Pentan, oxidase and ceratoniase enzyme
Uses: Binder, thickening agent, stabilising agent –
cosmetics
Pectin
Biological source: Purified carbohydrate – acid
hydrolysis – inner portion – rind –
Citrus peels – Citrus limonii or Citrus auranticum
Family : Rutaceae
Uses: Emulsifying and gelling agent – cosmetics
Xanthan gum
Biological source: Fermentation – bacteria –
Xanthomonas compestris on high molecular weight polysaccharides
Chemical constituents: D – glucose, D – glucouronic
acid and D – mannose
Uses: Binder, thickening agent – cosmetics
Preparation of antitartar toothpaste and sunscreen
preparation
Raw
material – Preservatives
• Preservative
– “any substances which are exclusively or mainly intended to inhibit the
development of microorganisms in the cosmetic product”.
• Preservatives help to preserve the formula and
ensure the durability of your cosmetic products.
• They
are essential for a formula containing water. Indeed, the presence of water in
a formula creates a favorable environment for microorganisms development.
• Used
in cosmetics is essential to prevent alterations caused by microorganisms and
contamination during formulation, shipment, storage or consumer use.
Synthetic Preservatives
Advantages
Using synthetic preservatives allows you to have a good understanding of the
safety and toxicity profile of the ingredient. Low concentrations of synthetic
preservatives effectively preserve the product.
• Synthetic
preservatives have a broad spectrum of activity against bacteria and
fungi.
• They
are more affordable than natural preservatives.
Organohalogen compounds
Organohalogen compounds are a large class of natural and
synthetic chemical that contain at least one following halogens: fluorine,
chlorine, bromine, iodine.
• Triclosan
• Methylisothiazolinone
• Methylchloroisothiazolinone
• Chlorphenesin
• Chloroxylenol
Aldehyde and Glycol ethers
• Formaldehyde
• Benzylhemiformal
• Diazolidinyl
urea
• Imidazolidinyl
urea
• 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol
• DMDM
hydantoin
• MDM
hydantoin
• phenoxyethanol
• 2-butoxyethanol
• 2-(2-butoxyethoxy)-ethanol
• 2-(2-ethoxy)-ethanol
Parabens
• Parabens
are a series of parahydroxybenzoates or esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid. They
are known as preservatives and used for their bactericidal and fungicidal
properties.
• Methylparaben
• Ethylparaben
• Propylparaben
• Butylparaben
• Isobutylparaben
Natural preservatives
• List
of the most common natural preservatives found in cosmetic products
• Benzoic
Acid
• Sorbic
Acid
• Salicylic
Acid
• Alcohol
Antioxidant preservatives
• An
antioxidant is a substance that inhibits oxidation or reactions promoted by
oxygen, peroxides or free radicals.
Synthetic antioxidant
• Butylated
hydroxytoluene (BHT)
• Butylated
hydroxyanisole (BHA)
Natural antioxidant
• Tocopherol
(Vitamin E)
• Ascorbic
Acid (Vitamin C)
• Polyphenols
• Flavonoids
Raw
materials – Antioxidants
• Cosmetics
– prone to spoilage – oxidation of fats, fatty acids and other organic material
by atmospheric oxygen
• Antioxidants
– keeps oils and fats from rancid
• Concentration
– 0.02% – 0.1%
Ideal characters
• Stable
• Effective
over a wide PH range
• Colorless
and odorless
• Non
toxic
• Compatible
– other ingredients and packaging material
Phenolic antioxidants
- Vitamin
E
• Natural
antioxidant – topically applied –UV radiation
• Shown
to reduce – erythema, edema and sun burn
• Increase
SPF – antiageing effect
2. Gallate – Methyl, ethyl, propyl, octyl gallate
3. BHA – Butyrated hydroxy anisole
4. BHT – Butyrated hydroxy toulene
BHA and BHT
• Neutalise
fee oxygen radicals
• Prevent
auto oxidation of organic materials – rancidity of fats and oils
• Extend – product shelf life
• Effective
with EDTA
• Concentration
– 0.01 – 0.1%
• Preserve
and stabilize – creams, lotions, shampoos, make ups and sunscreen lotions
Non – Phenolic antioxidants
- Vitamin
C/Ascorbic acid
• Protects
skin – oxidative damage – UV rays
• Anti
ageing property – avoids hyper pigmentation
• Anti
inflammatory
• Effect
is increased with Vitamin C and E
• Concentration
– 0.2 – 4 %
• Used – lotions, creams, sun protection products,
shampoos and lipsticks
•
2. Lecithin – Synergist – phenolic antioxidant
3. Coenzyme Q 10
• Benzoquinone
compound – plant and human tissues
• Membranes
of endoplasmic reticulum, lysosomes, vesicles, inner membrane of mitochondria
• Because
of ability to transfer electron – antioxidant
• Concentration
– 2-6%
• Anti
wrinkle property
4. Grape seed extract
• Proanthocyanidins
5. Pine bark extract
• Pyenogenol -wine, cranberries, green and black tea,
black currant onions
Raw
materials – Perfumes
• Per
– through, Fumum – smoke
• Early
perfumes – pleasant smells – burning wood and grass
• Component –
impart fragrance – cosmetic products
• Used – products – bath salt to skin lotions, face
creams, sprays, shampoos and aromatic substances
• Level
of fragrances – varies – product to product
• Face
creams – 0.01% fragrance/weight
• Soap
– 0.5% – 3%
Classified
• Ottos
– concentrated principle – natural flowers
• Floral
oils –Rose, jasmine, broom, gardenia, orchid
• Essential
oils – Eucalyptus, peppermint, mint, citrus, vetver oil, clove, lemon and
coriander oil
• Dipropylene
glycol
• Benzaldehyde
• Benzophenone
• Benzyl
benzoate
Summary
• Colorant
: Substances added to cosmetics products to colour the product and /or to
impart color to the skin and /or its appendages
• Natural
pigments
• Various
fixed oils and volatile oils – base – various creams, lotions, hair
conditioners, hair tonics
• Certain
oils –therapeutic properties – tooth paste, mouth washes, gargles
• Bases
– cosmetics – mixture of oils, fats and waxes
• Unctuous,
fusible, viscous solid substances – waxy luster
• Esters
– fatty acids – high molecular weight monohydric alcohol – cetyl alcohol and
cholesterol
• Hydrophobic
or hydrophilic high molecular weight molecules colloidal properties
• Used
in cosmetics is essential to prevent alterations caused by microorganisms and
contamination during formulation, shipment, storage or consumer use.
• Antioxidants
– keeps oils and fats from rancid